https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/blob/master/Guide_N64A_n_N64RGB.pdf

Including deblur, wonderfull RGB Picture, OSD for configuring and more…
I used the new FPC Adapter (thanks to borti)

If you want a mod:
https://www.wolfsoft.de/shop/product_info.php/products_id/15375/

Here you can find some installation pics for a N64 jap  NUS-CPU-03 Board

Cutted Pin 3 and used C-Sync from RGB Advanced Borad

(some testing)

Now its time to put the receiver inside my Famicom A/V

You have to gut a circuit at Pin 4 from the Controllerport and wire it like on the picture.

Now it works with UWRC Controller and Real Controller too.

As I have a RGB Mod from Tim Worthington inside and the helper PCB from borti you have to wire the helper pcb „behind“ the cutted wire

But we need some Input and Led Display too.

Here I wanted to make it incognito like possible and put the LEDs through the cooling openings.

The only „bad“ part was the reset button.
But you didn’t see it at normal viewpoint to the Famicom

If you want to buy some Look here

Great bluetooth Pads working on tablets, iphone, ipad, android phone/tablets, Windows, MAC, Nintendo Wii, Retrocon…

The SFC30 is looking like a SNES Controller and reached it around 80-90%. But I want it 100%

So I put the PCB of a SFC30 into a original SNES Controller. You need only some drilling and its a fast job.

Look here for some pictures during the process

a) You can mod the ControllerPort inside the PAL SNES and shortcut the 4 diodes with some wire.

b) You mod the controller inside

I found different PCB generations inside the SuperFamicom. A PCB copyright 1992 shows with big arrows: Only P

OK I have a look inside a PAL SNES Controller and shows to me: R1=1,2kOhm and R2=3kOhm.
I done a quickshot with standard Resistors and used 1,2k and 3,3k. And Yeah a japanese Controller is working on my PAL SNES.

A „older“ japanese PCB from 1991 is missing the two resistor spaces. After checking the cirquits at 1992 Layout, no problem for this layout too.

Put 1,2kOhm between Pin 5 and Pin 4 and

3,3k between Pin 5 and Pin 3

of the ControllerCable Connector and it works too

Have Fun

After some cleaning and 1-2 weeks in sun and a retrobright lotion it looks really nice again

final

With the help of a IC XMITTER DGTL 192KHZ 28SOIC and the pcb from borti it is a easy mod.

I removed the RF-Modulator and put the TSOP LED in place

After this I decided to put a 3,5Zoll Sata Harddisc into a broken Wii.
I am planing to use the original Power Supply and the original USB Connectors.

I opened the wii and removed all until you only have the main PCB inside

I removed to parts (red marked) to disable the USB Wires into the mainboard and connected the USB Cables from the USB/Sata Connector to the onbaord USB Port

The power is taken from the Top Site of the mainbaord. Here I have to remove the original Fuse (red marked) to avoid getting any voltage to the mainboard.

You can get 12V to power up harddisc from the right site of the fuse.

GND is found at the edge of the mainboard.

I placed a standard 7805 voltage regulator to get the 5V for the Harddisc

Here you can see original case of the used USB/Sata Connector

all together

I extended the power Led of the USB/Sata Adapter to the original power LED of the wii

And here you can see the final backsite with connectors

As it was very cold in Dezember, I decided to give it away to a car painting company.

It took time but it was good to wait.

Look here for the professional look of a SNES in „apple white“

compare with a wii