today I received the balltop for my Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Stick.
Here you can see a milky white balltop 37,5mm diameter with 6mm insert for use in arcadesticks.
You will find a RGB-Led inside for make all colours you wish
On the left site you will see a standard red balltop.
In the middle the milky one, right the milky one with LED on:
Video
today I done the switchless mod for a PAL Mainboard.
Its the third different mainboard i looked at.
Mainboard PC BD SATURN MAIN VA0 Pal
At the solder Side you will find some Jumper from JP 6 to JP 13
cut the three circuits at Jumper JP7,JP10,JP12 for Language preparation
remove Jumper 2 (50Hz, 60Hz switching)
Wire PIC like shown at the picture:
For make the Reset Button work, you have to cut this circuit on the parts site of the mainboard:
Remove the LED PCB. It holds a 5x2mm square LED.
Replace it by a Duo LED and use some glue
Left red wire, middle GROUND (take it from the mainboard), right green wire.
today I done a LED mod for a NES.
Its easy, the most difficulty is to open and remove all screws.
You must remove the mainboard to get the Power LED PCB.
Remove the original 5mm LED and replace with a color you like.
Look here:
Today I modded a Sega Master System II.
You can change between 50/60Hz via the „Pause“ Button.
The normal function of the pause is still working if you press it a very short time.
For working with sebs switchless mod, I done some modification on the code.
Here you can download the code: switchless MasterSystem Code
a) make use of common anode RGB-LEDs for brighter Leds
b) reduce the code to two modes 50 and 60Hz.
Here you can see the solder site of the SMS2 Unit. You have to cut the Pause Button Signal:
for making 50 and 60 Hz switching work you have to cut Pin 57 of
Sega IC 315-5246 (64 Pins):
Here you can see the wiring of the PIC16F630
For Displaying the LED I put it under the Pause Button.
From the top its not so bright but it works:
english video
german Video
today we build a Furious Controller with a custom design including lightning of the buttons.
The Stick Ball is on every time the controller is pluged into a Videogame Console.
If you press ab button the button will light on as long as you press it.
I am using a NEOGEO AES3-5 unit for the switchless mod today
I added a second Bios from Razoola the UNIBIOS. You can get it at www.wolfsoft.de or unibios.free.fr
Here you can find a good tutorial for piggyback the UNIBIOS http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/
First you have cut pin 2 of the onboard Bio and lift the pin up:
use a DIP 40 socket to make a future replacement easier
Lift up pin 2 of the mainboard and pin 2 of the DIP-socket
As usually I am using the switchless mod from seb http://seb.riot.org/saturnmod/
And the inspiration from Pete Grimes Site: http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/
This time I can’t use sebs pic code „out of the box“.
I have done some lite modifications to the code.
50/60Hz switching is inverted at the NeoGeo and NeoGeo can’t switch between 50/60 Hz during operation. So it is needed to do a reset after switching 50/60Hz.
The Country Mode must reduced from 3 to 2 and I have done some slight changes for make a RGB-LED working. The difference at the RGB-LED it is wired common Anode
You will find the source code here.
red wire PIC Pin 1 (5V) taken from IC HC04 Pin 14
black wire PIC Pin 14 (GND) taken from IC HC04 Pin 7
red wire PIC Pin 5 to RGB-LED (Resistor 150Ohm)
blue wire PIC Pin 6 to RGB-LED (Resistor 150Ohm)
yellow wire PIC Pin 8 to lifted Pin 2 of the DIP-socket
blue wire PIC Pin 10 to lifted Pin 2 of the onboard Bios
white wire PIC Pin 11 to solder site of mainboard (Reset Signal)
pink wire PIC Pin 12 to PAL Jumper right site (LSPC2-A2 TSOP Pin 64)
grey wire PIC Pin 13 to solder site of mainboard (Reset Button)
remove the pal jumper, solder pink to the right site of the jumper
(left site of PAL1 5V, right site to LSPC2-A2 TSOP Pin 64 for 50/60Hz definition)
Here you can see the lifted pins
on the solder site you have to cut one circuit (see red marked area) and solder grey and white
(to split the original Reset Button Signal and make use of the Reset Button via the PIC)
complete mainboard top site
The black wire at the RGB-Led under the Reset Buttons is carrying 5V and taken from a nearby IC
Now you have to add the RGB Led to the power switch, with help of a dremel.
I done it the same way as pete from www.mmmonkey.co.uk
For more power I am using now a RGB-Led with black wire common Anode 5V
english video
german Video
This mod has been a long time in my head and I am happy to make it become real now 
The Sega CD-X is a little great unit, you can take with you as a CD-Walkman and it includes a complete Sega Genesis and a Sega CD in one unit.
After done the previous modding of Genesis 2 in combination with Sega CD 2 and 32X I done the same for this little beauty.
We can offer you the complete modding, at our website: www.wolfsoft.de
The shielding carries GND for the Mainboard. It will not work without it. For testing you can use a wire like the following pictures:
The battery have to be replaced its a solder Version of ML 2016 (3V) Li-AL Rechargeable Batterie.
Modell: ML2016-LF (Maxell)
http://datasheet.octopart.com/ML-2016-T25-Maxell-datasheet-558430.pdf
After removing the shielding you can find the jumper for 50/60Hz and the Country Settings
The default for a europe unit JP3 is set and JP2. You will have to remove any jumper you will find
at JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4.
Some more Info about the Jumper Area:
The circuits are going straight to the big SEGA 315-5660 IC
Pin 46 at Sega 315-5560 -> 50/60Hz switching. GND= 50Hz and 5V = 60Hz (JP3, JP4)
Pin 107 at Sega 315-5560 -> Country settings. GND= jap. and 5V = engl. (JP1, JP2)
Now its time to make use of a PIC 16F630 with sebs Code.
red wire 5V, black wire GND, pink wire 50/60Hz, purple wire country setting
Now we have to take the 2nd Mainboard (CD-Area). We have to mod the Display with two Duo Leds. First you have to remove the shielding.
Desolder the Display Unit.
use four 220Ohm resistors and head shrink tube to avoide short curcuit.
Here you can see the routing of the 4 wires bounded with some tape.
Now it is time to get the „power“ over the reset button. It is placed on the CD-Mainboard. Lucky the Signal is going through the 36 Pin Connector on the left site.
You will have to cut pin 11 at the outersite of the connector.
PIC Pin 13 grey is connected to the upper site. Its for the Reset switch
PIC Pin 11 white is connected to the lower site (Reset Sega 315-5660 IC Pin 78)
You are in need of a Eprom (27c2004) and burn all 3 bios Version into it. The usa, japanese and pal Version. You can select the different Bios Version via A16 (Pin 38) and A17 (Pin 39) of the Eprom.
The order is: USA-> JPN -> EUR.
You can do it by yourself. Take the CD-Bios Versions and make a byteswap each of them.
The concat the 3 Files via Windows Commandline copy
copy /B usa.bin + pal.bin + jpn.bin switchless.bin
The final goal is to get 2 wires from the 16F630 PIC to the Eprom.
Here we make use of 2 wires from the Sega Expansionport.
|
|
PIC 8 /Eprom 38 |
PIC 10 /Eprom 39 |
|
EUR |
0 |
1 |
|
JPN |
1 |
0 |
|
USA |
0 |
0 |
First you have to disable to onboard bios. Desolder PIN 2 (CS) of the onboard ROM and lift the pin up. Solder a red wire from the lifted Pin 2 of the ROM to Pin 40 (5V) of the ROM.
Now its time to prepare 38 wires each 5-6 cm and do some soldering 
Wire blue and yellow as you see on the picture. This to wires will do the Bios selection:
red and green coming from the 5mm Duo-Leds. Solder both parallel to PIN 5,6 of the PIC
The pink wire to the AV-Port is optional, only necassary for 32X support
You will have to cut the red marked circuit and solder a pink wire to Pin 6 of the AV Port
We will disable the Mono-Audio for this function. This will not be a problem, because STEREO-Audio is still working. (Who needs mono ?)
On the right picture you can see the right routing for the wire:
To prevent short circuits use tape on the left site of the CD-X.
Here you can see the routing of the LED wires.
Make sure no red/green wire is nearby or inbetween of the 36 PIN connector between the two mainboards:
german:
you can see the different colors:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaQCTsi3c6c
Hi Folks,
after polish the good old Jumbo Quadro Games Cabinet, I found a bigger one a rare cabinet called: Quadro Magnum.
There are different advantages over the Jumbo Cabinet:
a) I can use a digital Multisync CRT-Monitor like the Wells-Gardner 27 Zoll instead of the analog 25 Zoll Multisync CRTs
b) the controlpanel is really big, so I can make use of more toys
c) its a sitdown
d) a negative point is the width is around 83cm and a lot of door are only 80 cm 
e) turns the screen like all Quadros via motor
It will take some time to finish this project, because its for me and I have a lot other work to do at the moment.
Here the first pictures:
what have I done until now:
a) orderd new glasses for marquee an bezel
b) asked the panelmaker willi for a new CP
to do:
a) what is needed on this big controlpanel
1-2 trackball,
1-2 spiner, or crazy 4 spiner for games like warlords…
2-4 sticks?
analog stick?
a lot of buttons
Thank to Alex from cologne, I got a Cinema4D Object of the Quadro Games Jumbo Arcade Cabinet. And it was time play with it, to show whats possible to make.
Here you can see the old look:
Here some tests:
I got a defective Virtua Boy from a customer with the Glitchy Display Error.
After a quick research i found: http://www.projectvb.com/displayfix.html
I used the Solder Method for repairing:
For removing the cable I was using a Fiber Pencil like this
and after this It was possible to resolder the pins @ 230-250Grad Celsius.
And it works, great again like the first day
One little tipp: check the cable connector if its connected right at the other side.
If its inserted to much, you will get no picture from this site…
