Recently I got some Pads from http://www.8bitdo.com/
If you want to buy some Look here
Great bluetooth Pads working on tablets, iphone, ipad, android phone/tablets, Windows, MAC, Nintendo Wii, Retrocon…
The SFC30 is looking like a SNES Controller and reached it around 80-90%. But I want it 100%
So I put the PCB of a SFC30 into a original SNES Controller. You need only some drilling and its a fast job.
Look here for some pictures during the process
Some month ago I got a lot of uwrc from micro look here:
I got some snes, saturn, smd, parts.
and a broken saturn pcb for hacking an old atari 2600 stick (one of my favorite console)
I put some micro switches downunder for start button and 2nd button
after some time I got my first hacked wirless Atari CX-40 Stick and it looks much better as the atari original
With the help of SegaMegaDrive Receiver all Kind of Controller works with eg:
Sega Master, Sega Mega Drive, Sega MultiMega, Atari 800, Atari 800XE, Atari 800XL Atari 2600, Amiga, Atari ST, Commodore C64 
I used a Retro-Adapter and a SNES Receiver from micro, to make the UWRC work with usb for PC Emulator using.
Now I can use all kind of controller at the original Consoles and PC
I am currently have Controllers:
4x UWRC Saturn Controllers
1x UWRC SNES Controller (micro I need more, please make a new batch of pcbs)
1x UWRC Atari CX-40 Controller
Receiver:
some Saturn Receiver
2x Neo Geo Receiver
Snes Receiver
After all, gaming wireless is the best thing happens to my old consoles since years
thanks to micro to make this possible
look here for a snes looking not good
After some cleaning and 1-2 weeks in sun and a retrobright lotion it looks really nice again
final
I am in search for a nice Harddisc Case in white, but I didn’t find any nice looking case…
After this I decided to put a 3,5Zoll Sata Harddisc into a broken Wii.
I am planing to use the original Power Supply and the original USB Connectors.
I opened the wii and removed all until you only have the main PCB inside
I removed to parts (red marked) to disable the USB Wires into the mainboard and connected the USB Cables from the USB/Sata Connector to the onbaord USB Port
The power is taken from the Top Site of the mainbaord. Here I have to remove the original Fuse (red marked) to avoid getting any voltage to the mainboard.
You can get 12V to power up harddisc from the right site of the fuse.
GND is found at the edge of the mainboard.
I placed a standard 7805 voltage regulator to get the 5V for the Harddisc
Here you can see original case of the used USB/Sata Connector
all together
I extended the power Led of the USB/Sata Adapter to the original power LED of the wii
And here you can see the final backsite with connectors
For changing the Volume of a pinball you always have to open the coindoor.
And mostly you have the key in the coindoor.
I find a solution to move the switches outsite of the coindoor.
So you can remove the key and it looks better.
I connected the volume + and volume – parallel to the switches inside of the coindoor.
But they don’t work without opening the door.
So I have to put a “coin-open” switch outsite too. Its the green one.
To change the volume you have to press the green once and then you can change the volume via the two red and black switches as usual.
Here the first pics
Video:
you have only to replace the original red plastic with two screws
remove the lamp
,
put in the new one with the wires
connect the three crocodiles to the inside switches
here you can see the replaced coindoor plastic with the new one
Here you can see my little treasure Project. It will be realized in a pin like Tales of Arabian Night.
I have put some RGB changing Leds into the chest and some holes into the treasure area.
And I have put some glasfibre into the holes to make the effect more viewable…
Look here some pics and a video
Video:
After the candlelight mod for the Magic Trunk it seems to insert some new pets into Theatre of Magic Pinball. As there a many rabbits on the playfield I decide to take two and make replaces the eyes with 3mm power Leds in red, because there are dangerous rabbits on the playfield.
This time it was tricky to make the holes for it because this rabbit is tiny around 5cm long.
I done the holes like a Y 3mm for the eyes and from the back to the head around 3-5mm
It works good if you use a 1,5mm at the eyes to get a fix for the bigger hole
eyes replaced
final position of the leds
first dangerous look
dimensions
team
So up some plastics to connect the Rabbits to the slingshots.
For this I have used clear plastics and put them over the originals to prevent damage and to make the mod removeable without a trace
Video:
some times ago I orderd a LEGO R2D2 keychain and found a little usb-stick fits into the r2d2.
Its a Lacie moskeyto USB-Flash Drive 8GB.
First I done some dremel work at the r2d2 and removed to original cover of the usb-stick.
Some hot glue and ready to go.
a few weeks ago I saw the one year old project of a clock with leds.
http://www.mikrocontroller.net/topic/156661#1479435
I done two for me one, with a black plexi and one with stainless steel.
After a lot of soldering and some woodwork…
The next step after making the replacement of the Archer in MM was to replace the the arrowhead of the archer.
Some cutting, some drilling and wires
making a 5mm LED look like a arrowhead 
color it red (at the next I will try some silver color…)
a hole for the wires through the plastics
place the archer to the right position
the right one
with light up red
both together
Video:
I done some little modifications on the archer.
The first version of the arrowhead was red, now I used some silver paint.
Look here:
